How to quickly resize your images

I know I've mentioned this before, but I am always trying to maximize my time and find ways to make my post-processing "process" simpler and easier. I've learned a few tricks along the way and they have all been "lightbulb moments" for me.....the kind where you are like "how did I ever live without this?!?".  Batching resizing my images is one of those "lightbulb moments" for sure. Anything that saves me time is a win-win and this one is just too easy to NOT do!

I am always resizing my images for blog posts, contributor posts, client sessions, Instagram, Facebook...yada yada yada. Being able to batch resize my images has been a lifesaver and it's seriously so easy to do using Photoshop! You can also easily do this in Lightroom, but I find PS to be a little fast and easier if I already have them images on a folder on my desktop or hard drive and they are easily accessible. 

Follow these super easy steps to batch resize your images in Photoshop.

1. Open Photoshop (duh, right)?

2. Go to File - Scripts - Image Processor (see photo below)

3. Enter your information in the pop up box on your screen.

Use first (#1) section to open the images you want to resize. You can also do this with any images you have open in Photoshop (so if you have them already open in PS, just start with step 2 above). In section #2, you will select where you want these images saved. I keep "Save in same location" selected and the are saved in a folder in that main folder. You can easily select a different folder here. Easy peasy!

For section #3, you will enter how you want them save (JPEG, PSD, TIFF), as well as the quality and the size you want them saved as. If there are any actions you want to run on these images, you can do that in section #4, but I usually just leave that one as it is. 

4. Click "Run"

The final step is to select the "run" option in the top right of your pop up box and your images will be resized and waiting for you in their original folder!! Voila! Don't you love learning short cuts???

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3 tips for capturing reflections

I love capturing reflections in just about anything - water, glass, windows....you name it! Reflections are super fun and can add a ton of interest to any photo. I am always on the lookout for reflective surfaces and hopefully these 3 tips will help you achieve a fun reflection!

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1. Think about the surface

There are many different surfaces where you can find reflections. Water is probably my favorite surface in which to capture reflections because it really makes the viewer stop and look at the photo. Water reflections allow you to see both the subject + their reflection, which adds extra interest to the image. To really nail a water reflection, you need water that is pretty still (like puddles, completely calm ponds, etc..) and you have to pay attention to how and where the light is in the sky. Harsh, direct sunlight makes it much harder to see + capture reflections. I've found that reflections are easier to see when the sun is either lower in the sky or the day is overcast + cloudy. 

Other reflective surfaces, such as mirrors, windows and doors are also perfect for capturing reflections. The key to these type of reflections (or at least for me) is to try keep myself and my camera out of the photo. It takes a good bit of moving around and ducking/weaving, but I promise it's possible!

2. Change your angle

When you're shooting in attempt to capture a reflection, you really have to move up, down and all around to find the perfect angle for that reflection. For water shots, I've found that squatting down low and really changing my viewpoint can help me see and capture the reflection I'm hoping for. A still subject is always easier to photograph, so luckily, my kids like to play with water or look for fish and turtles so I'm able to take advantage of their stillness and move around a little to find the best angle.

For other reflective surfaces like windows and doors, I also find that moving my camera angle slightly can make a BIG difference when it comes to capturing a reflection.  Begin by looking with your naked eye before you even try to capture it with your camera. If you can see a reflection with your eye, then you can find it in camera. It just might take a little movement to figure out the best angle.

3. Keep your eyes open + experiment

Maybe it's the creative part of my brain, but I am always on the lookout for ways I can document our everyday life in new and exciting ways. Using reflective surfaces to capture more details of our story is definitely one of my favorites. I recommend keeping your eyes open and snapping away if the moment strikes. Pull your camera out as you're walking past windows and capture your kiddos running this way and that. Use glasses or doors to show your surroundings and what the day looked like from your vantage point. The key is to experiment and have fun along the way! 

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5 tips for product photography

Whether you have a blog or post regularly on social media, you are showcasing something when you post a photograph. Maybe it's your family, or new bedding...or your favorite book or best cup of coffee. Maybe you do sponsored posts or help promote your favorite products on Instagram! The key to these "product" photos is making them stand out and shine. Here are some of my top tips for stepping up your product photography game.

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1. Start with a clean base.

My "clean base" is usually a white surface. I painted my office desk white just for this purpose and I also keep a few foam poster boards handy to use as my background as well. A clean surface can be anything from your wooden floors to your marble counter tops. You don't need to go out and purchase a ton of background surfaces for this purpose at all. Look around your home and see what you've got (wooden floors, cutting boards, tile floors, counters, desktops, rugs, blankets...). If you are looking plain and simple, I recommend the cheap foam poster boards from Target or the craft store. These babies literally cost pennies and they work perfectly to create a good starting base for your products!

2. Use a reflector

When I'm shooting products, I typically always start with a clean base and then prop up one of my handy white poster boards alongside my products to help act as a reflector. This reflector helps minimize weird shadows cast on my surface and adds more light to my products. You can totally use a photography reflector here as well if you have one. I've just found that it's easier to keep my poster boards stacked together and then "build" kind of a frame around my products to guide my light. 

3. Shoot in natural light during the middle of the day if possible

Natural light is a must for product photography (unless you're working in a studio where you can manipulate the lighting to your liking). I like to stage and shoot my product shots during the middle of the day when the sun is above my house and harsh light isn't streaming into my window. If you pay attention to your house, you will notice the color of the light changes throughout the day (just like it does outside). I like mid-day because the lighting is more neutral in color and I always set my white poster boards up close to a window (making sure my boards are not in of any harsh light or shadows). 

4. Use a tripod

I'm pretty sure my head or face might be crooked because rarely do I get a straight, level shot when shooting looking down. Using a tripod and live view mode on my camera has been a game changer for any product photography I do. I shoot WAY less + get it right more often. By using a tripod, I also don't have to worry about my shutter speed or possible camera shake. 

5. Plan it out...just a little

Before you even begin to shoot your product, try to envision the end result. Are you looking for something clean and simple? Colorful and bold? Knowing where you want to end up will help you get there faster and will keep you from wanting to pull your hair out as you shoot. I start with an idea in mind and then gather any additional props or objects I want to add into my photo. Adding a little color to your photo can really make your image pop and stand out. Simple props (candles, flowers, fabrics) can accent the main product without taking over the entire image. I am also a BIG fan of lines and composition, so I am frequently rearranging/tilting/moving my objects until I'm happy with the set up. 

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How to use leading lines to enhance your images

Nothing quite makes my photographer heart go pitter patter like a well composed image. I love symmetry + lines + framing + all that jazz. Using leading lines in your images draws your viewer in and helps add depth and dimension. Follow these tips to enhance your images using lines! 

Lines, lines everywhere!

I am always on the lookout for leading lines when I'm composing my images. If I can make a line "lead" to my subject, than I sure will. These lines help to guide the viewers eye to main focus of the image and can really make your subject pop from the frame. Leading lines are ALL around you and just knowing what to look for can change your perspective altogether.

Use your surroundings

Once you start to look for them, you will likely start to see lines everywhere. I use doorways, hallways, stairs, bridges, roads, trails and more as my leading lines. I am always trying to figure out how I can use the lines around me to help frame my subject or lead to my subject. 

Change your perspective

When composing your images, try to make your lines point TO your subject. By changing your perspective and shooting viewpoint, you can add in more depth and dimension to the image. In the photo above, I photographed my kiddos on a swinging bridge, but made sure I had enough of either side of the bridge to add in a little depth to the image. The sides of the bridge and the wooden slats draw your eye right to them. In the image below, I shot looking down on my son and used the curtains and lines of the windows to lead down to him. 

So go on out and look for those leading lines. How can you use them to enhance your subject? 

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5 tips for creative framing

Creative framing can make a subject pop right out of the photo. I am always on the lookout for fun framing options both inside out home and when we're outdoors adventuring. Framing draws the viewer into your subject and helps to isolate then from the surrounding environment. It can take your composition from ho-hum to WOW! And it also adds to the overall storytelling element of your photo.  

Once you start looking for framing you will see opportunities EVERYWHERE. For real. Just keep your eye open to your surroundings and keep these five tips in mind! 

1. Fill the frame

Filling the frame can add more depth and interest to your framed subject. In the two photos above, I was standing a good distance from my daughter to make sure I would have the surrounding walls/trees in my photo to use as a framing element. If I were closer to them (more like a portrait photo), the framing would not have been as obvious.

2. Think about the foreground and background

Keep both the foreground and background in mind and use them to tell your story. In the photo below, I framed my son within my daughters arm. To me, this photo tells a few different stories... It shows how small my son is in relation to my daughter; it shows how my son is always copying what my daughter is doing, and it also conveys how adventurous and daring these two are. By shooting looking up at them, I was able to keep the background minimal and was able to frame my son. 

3. Keep it simple

A minimal background or a simple framing will enhance your photo and draw the viewer to your subject. Try to eliminate any objects/areas that don't directly tell your story. These elements will distract from your overall framing. I use both the content aware and clone tool in Photoshop if needed to help remove any unwanted objects. 

4. Use shapes

Shapes are everywhere and once you start looking, you will start finding framing options wherever you go! Circles (mirrors), squares (windows), rectangles (doors, hallways) are just a few of the shapes I use within our home.

5. Pay attention to your surroundings

Keep your eyes open for framing opportunities in your environment, such as doorways, mirrors, windows, hallways, etc... Since I document our everyday, I am always looking for new ways to capture the same old, same old. Framing is usually my go-to when I feel "stuck" on my Project 365! 

And there you have it! Framing is SUPER simple and I promise you will start noticing framing opportunities as soon as you start looking! Framing is an awesome way to improve your composition while also pushing yourself creatively! 

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3 reasons to embrace the mess of childhood

I will admit that I love a neat and tidy house. I like things clean. I thrive off of order and tidiness. Almost everything in my house has a place and try every single day to make sure things are back where they belong. I keep my counter tops clean and the all of our clothes in the hamper. I make up beds as soon as feet hit the floor, so yeah...obviously, I like things clean.

But...sometimes I feel like I'm missing out on the mess and creativity of my children so I'm slowly learning to embrace the mess and enjoy these little moments of childhood. If you struggle with "messes" and crave order, then here are my three reasons to embrace the untidiness and enjoy this phase of childhood!

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1. Time is fleeting.

One day I know I'm going to wake up and their stuff isn't going to be all over the place. Their messes will be contained to their room where they probably will prefer to hang out. Their toys will be replaced with gadgets and gossip. This phase of childhood is so fleeting and I've decided to embrace the mess and enjoy my kids "leftovers" and I think you should too!

2. It's not really a "mess".

I'm trying to remind myself that what I see and find strewn about our house isn't actually a "mess". It's our life. It's the way my children play or it's their age. My son isn't tall enough to stand at the counter and reach the sink. His little hands aren't strong enough to squeeze out the toothpaste neatly. He tries, bless his heart. But his "mess" is because of his sweet age. 

3. You will appreciate the small things.

I will forever be thankful for my camera because it allows me to see my world from a different perspective. The "snapshot" of our day lets me really take a good look at our life and all the little bits + pieces that make up our day. These images captured are return tickets to our past, and while it make seem like a mess, I'm learning to appreciate these little things and to accept them as they are. 

When's the last time you stepped back and EMBRACED the mess of childhood, rather than rushing to clean it up? Have you ever grabbed your camera and looked at those details through the lens before tidying up? If you haven't, I challenge you to do just that! Walk around your home. See the messes and piles and toys and try to capture those "leftovers" now, for soon those leftovers will be gone and replaced by something different.

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How to make your own lightroom presets

I'm a self-confessed editing addict. I do enjoy editing. BUT - I like creative editing and fun edits and playing around with unique colors and layers and stuff like that. When it comes to everyday editing (like my Project 365) and editing "like" photos, the simpler, the better! I would much rather be out shooting, than indoor behind my computer editing!

One of the ways I've simplified my editing process is by creating my own Lightroom presets. I have a love affair with presets and just may very well be a "hoarder" of presets. I don't use them all, but I sure do love seeing what they do for my images. (You can read about my favorite Lightroom presets and how I make them work for me in this blog post). But I also like to create my own personal presets. I typically do this for almost every client session or set of images where a good number of photos were taken in similar lighting and similar backgrounds. I find this greatly reduces my editing time and you can't beat that!

I put together a short video showing you a quick edit of a photo and how INCREDIBLY easy it is to create your own presets!! Check it out below!

Creating your own presets is a major time saver when it comes to editing! I have a few of my own presets I use pretty regularly, and then also routinely create new presets with client and personal photos! The most important thing to remember when creating your own preset or when using a purchased preset is that SOME tweaking is probably necessary. Occasionally I'l have that one click preset that's magic, but for the most part, I am playing around with my sliders to get the image where I like it! 

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5 tips for light and airy photos

I don't think I have a "favorite" type of photo. I love deep, dark, moody photos as much as I love light and bright photos, but I do think my "go-to" is light and airy. I've been shooting that way for as long as I can remember and it's kind of engrained in me when I go to compose my images. If you're wanting to give your images a boost and make them a little lighter and brighter, here are my tips for achieving that look!  

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1. Use natural lighting only.

The first step to really make your images bright and airy is to make sure you are using natural light only and that you have a decent source of light. It's not impossible, but it will be a lot harder to achieve a "light an airy" photo after the sun has gone down. I love shooting my subjects close to, in front of or beside windows. North facing windows give off beautiful light (because the sun never really shines directly into them), but I'm a big fan of any kind of window. Pay attention to your surroundings and house and notice when the light is yummy! That's where you want to snap your photos! 

2. Declutter your surroundings.

I'm not saying to hire a maid to come and clean your house (although that would be nice, right?), but picking up and moving "stuff" out of your shot is going to make your focal point stronger. Just push the shoes, clothes, toys, etc. off to the side. I promise it will make all the difference!

3. Open your aperture as wide as possible. 

If you're not sure what aperture is, check out this post! 

Opening your aperture as wide as possible is going to let in as much light as possible. Just remember that the wider open your aperture is, the narrower your depth of field is, so less of your frame is going to be in focus. For me, I typically keep my aperture about f2.2 or 2.8 for indoor photos so more of my subject/photo is in focus. 

4. Bump up your exposure compensation.

If you're not sure what exposure compensation is, check out this post!

When I'm shooting indoors, my exposure compensation is usually at +0.5 to +1.0. Even though I might be in a room where there's pretty light in my house, there isn't as much light as would be outdoors, so I like to bump up my exposure compensation a little to give my photos a brighter feel. Remember that increasing your exposure compensation is going to affect your shutter speed, so pay attention to those numbers to make sure you don't end up with a blurry photo. 

5. Post processing adjustments.

Even after I've opened my aperture as wide as possible (to let in as much light as possible) and increased my exposure compensation, I almost ALWAYS tweak my photo in Lightroom to make it even lighter and brighter. I typically will bump up my exposure a little, increase the contrast (to help my subject pop from my frame) and then play with my highlights and shadows. Tweaking these areas can make a huge difference when it comes to your photo!

Light and airy photos are easy to achieve if you have good lighting and know how to manipulate your camera settings to work in your favor! If your typical style is dark and moody, push yourself to try something different. I love combining both aspects in my work (both professional and personal). While I do consider my "style" more light and bright, I love to push myself creatively and try new things!! That's part of the photography process for me and I love it!

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A guide to the rule of thirds

When it comes to photography, how your compose your image is just as important as your image itself. A good composition draws the viewer in and helps to tell your complete story without any words needed. A good "rule" to follow when envisioning you image is the "rule of thirds". Today, I thought I would touch on composition using this rule and how it can really make your images pop. (But remember - all rules are meant to be broken, so we'll cover that too)!

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What is the rule of thirds?

The rule of thirds is a method of composing your image into a third of your frame. Ever notice when you go crop your image (or maybe even when you look through your camera's viewfinder) that a nine-square grid helps guide you? (Check out the image below...). This "grid" divides your image into thirds and is super helpful in both composing your image (before you shoot) and cropping your image (in post-processing).

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How to use the rule of thirds?

When composing your image (or setting up your subject in the frame), you will want place them along one of the intersecting lines. My viewfinder doesn't have the grids, so I always just eyeball it when setting up my shot. And just in case you were wondering - NO! My kids (and probably my clients too) could care less about pretty light or composition. I am the one moving, angling and running around to compose my shot. I do rely on my grids for cropping in post-processing and typically always follow the rule of thirds (unless I don't - which I will explain in a sec!). 

By placing your focal point or subject where one of those lines intersects, you are creating more "blank space" in your image and are drawing your reader in to what you are capturing and helping to tell your story. Remember that there are several different options when it comes to composing your image using the rule of thirds! Don't feel restricted to the far right or far left only. You can also compose your image using the horizontal grid lines along the top and bottom of the grid as pictured in the two images below.

Have multiple subjects or want to fill your frame? No problem! Use the guides to place them along both sides of your grid. Notice in the image below how my daughters eye is just about at the top left intersecting line and my son follows the guide line along the right of the frame. 

**Note - I can't remember exactly, but I'm pretty sure I cropped my image to follow the rule. Photographing kids is like wrangling cats in a shower, so I'm pretty doubtful that I it was this "spot on" straight out of the camera!**

These images show various ways to compose your images using the rule of thirds. My go to is probably either the far left or far right. I LOVE blank space (and you can read all about how I use it here), so placing my focal point to the left or right gives me good room around my subject and helps them pop from the frame. 

When to break the rule of thirds?

Ok! So now that you know all about the rule of thirds, let's talk about when it break it!!

My answer to that is - WHENEVER YOU WANT TO! Yep! I'm a BIG fan of knowing the rules, but I'm also a big fan of breaking them. Photography may be an art, but it's also a passion and being creative is part of the process. If you want to place your subject smack dab in the middle - go for it! If you want your focal point to be all over the place and keep your viewer guessing, by all means, DO IT! Don't feel stuck to the rule of thirds when it comes to composing your image. It's a good rule to know and can definitely help tell a more complete story, but give yourself the freedom to do whatever your heart desires! 

While I use the rule of thirds a lot, I also break it a lot as well! I LOVE framing, so if I see an opportunity for framing and can place my subjects in the middle of something, I definitely do! I'm also a big fan of negative space (read more about that here), so I often find myself placing my focal point at the bottom or top middle of my frame.

So there you have it! The rule of thirds! It's great for composing your images and if you're new to photography and are trying to up your A-game, then definitely keep it in the back of your mind as you're setting up a shot! Learn the rule - and then learn when you love to break it! 

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3 reasons you should switch to back button focus

Are you using back button focus (BBF)? It's a game changer when it comes to nailing focus and once you switch to BBF, I promise you won't go back.

What is back button focus (BBF)?

In a nutshell, back button focus is moving your focus button to the back of your camera. On it's default setting, your focus and shutter button are combined together in your front shutter button (the button you push half way to lock focus, then click the rest of the way to snap your photo).

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Why should you switch to back button focus?

I was doubtful when I first read about BBF and it did take me a few days to get used to it, but I would never go back to having my focus and shutter buttons combined! Today I'm going to convince you to try it out!  

3 reasons for switching to back button focus

1. More accurate focusing

I'm sure you've had a time or two where you locked focus with your focus/shutter button + snapped your image, but your subject moved and the focus was missed altogether, right?? By reassigning your focus to a button on the BACK of your camera (the AF-ON button on back upper right of your camera), these two functions will work independently and you can easily change/re-focus/move, etc... without having to worry about your shutter button. This gives you full control over both your focus and shutter buttons and you can more accurately nail your focus.

2. Switch between single and continuous focus

With back button focus, you can easily switch between single focus (or locking your focus on your subject) and continuous focus (focusing on your subject for a period of time). When you have your subject in your frame, just focus on your subject (by pressing the BBF button) and the focus is locked. Obviously you would use this type of focusing on a still subject or a subject with minimal movement. For continuous focusing, press and hold the back button focus. The focus will lock on your subject and will track them as they move....which takes us to reason #3 (which is my favorite)!

3. Track a moving object

If your kids are like mine, they are always on the move! Always running, always jumping, sprinting at me, racing away from me.... With BBF, I can lock my focus on them and track them as they move, helping to get a more accurate focus. All I have to do is lock my focus, hold down the BBF button and snap away. The camera will track their movement and will refocus as they move closer or away from my camera. If you are using the default focus/shutter button option, you will have to continuously press your shutter button down half way and then try to snap your photo as they are moving. Some times you might catch that movement, but more times than not, your subject will move during that "in-between" moment and the focus will be off. 

Let's experiment!

If your camera is still set up to the default focus/shutter button system, grab a moving body and have them run towards you. Try to nail the focus of their movement for 8-10 frames (basically just snap away as they run towards you)! Chimp your images to see how many seem to be in focus. THEN - pull out your manual (or google the instructions for your camera type) and giving it a try. Now take that wild, crazy kid outside and have them run at you as you hold down your BBF and snap away for 8-10 frames. Chimp your images and see how many are in focus. Hooked yet??

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Understanding your camera's focus modes

We're covering the various modes of you camera this week and today we are moving on to the different auto focus modes you can select from in your camera settings. 

Accurate focus can make or break a photo. I love a soft, dreamy focus as much as the next person (see the largest image below), but 99.9% of the time I want my images in focus and sharp. I can only think of a handful of times where I purposefully wanted a blurred photo and those shots I did using manual focus anyway (Christmas light bokeh, etc...). All of the "soft focus" photos I have or share were just missed focus gone right (womp womp). 

Most DSLR camera's offer three different auto focus modes: one shot (AF-S), AI Servo (AF-C) + AI Focus (AF-A) and today we're going to learn which each of them does and how to select which one might be right for you!

What are the focus modes?

1. One shot (AF-S)

One shot (or AF-S) auto focus is your basic auto focus. You press your shutter button half-way (or BBF) and the focus is locked. The focus point will not change again until you release the shutter or if you BBF, you press your button again. 

One shot auto focus is perfect for landscape photos or images where your subject is still (buildings, parked cars, sleeping children).

2. AI Servo (AF-C)

Al Servo (or AF-C for Nikon users) is a continuous focusing mode and constantly tracks a moving subject, refocusing as needed. You cannot focus and recompose in this method as the focus will continue to track your subject (assuming that it's moving). This focusing mode is perfect for squirmy little toddlers, kiddos who just refuse to sit still, pets, action shots and more. 

3. AI Focus (AF-A)

AI focus (or AF-A for Nikon) is mix of both one shot focusing and AI Servo. As you are focusing, your camera will transition between these two modes. If you are on this mode and your subject is still (or has just very slight movement), your camera will focus as if it's on the one-shot mode. As soon as your subject starts moving, the focus will continuously track the object and will transition to AI Servo to maintain focus (or attempt to maintain focus). 

Which focus mode should you use?

The type of focus mode you use will depend on what you are photographing. If you photography lots of landscapes, still life, portraits, one shot might be your better option. If you are like me and are constantly chasing two kids (and a dog) around trying to just get ONE GOOD PHOTO, then AI Servo is definitely going to be a better option. If you do a little bit of both still life + active subjects, then maybe AI Focus would be your go-to. For me, I keep my camera set on AI Servo. My subjects are ALWAYS moving (they seriously never stop), so I feel more comfortable knowing my camera will likely track their movement as it occurs. 

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How to create a Phototshop action

I edit in both Lightroom and Photoshop and finding ways to simplify my workflow and editing is always a priority. I do love editing and can easily spend hours playing with just one photo, but things that I do to every single photo (sharpen, convert to sRGB, reduce noise), I like to create an action to make my process just a little easier. Creating an action in Photoshop is so super simple + such a time saver for editing! Here's how to make your own! 

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1. Click the new action option in your actions panel (labeled #1 in the image above). A pop up box will open and here you will name your action and select "ok" to confirm.

2. Click the red "record" button in your actions panel to start recording your action (#2 above). 

3. Run the steps of your action on your current photo. All steps will be recorded so make sure you are completing only the steps you would like to be a part of your saved action. 

4. Click the "stop" button (#4 in the image above) to end recording your action. 

And voila! You will have your action saved! Wasn't that super easy?? Creating actions is such a time saver for processes that you repeat on every photo! 

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5 inspiring photography books

I love a good book. Any kind of book, really. But photography books are some of my very favorite. I never tire of looking through these books and they are always the first place I turn when I need a little inspiration. Here are my top 5 inspiring photography books.

1. Capture the Moment: The Modern Photographer's Guide to Finding Beauty in Everyday and Family Life - Written by Sarah Wilkerson, CEO of Clickin Moms. This book is, hands down, my favorite photography book. The images are real life, everyday photos and throughout the book Sarah includes tips for achieving similar photos. Camera settings for the photos are also provide, which I always find incredibly helpful. Reading the book is  kind of like getting a 1:1 mentor session.

2. Expressive Photography: The Shutter Sisters' Guide to Shooting from the Heart - With it's unique and emotional images, this book is fantastic for sparking your creativity. Tips for composition and lighting are also included throughout the book.

3. The Design Aglow Posing Guide for Family Portrait Photography: 100 Modern Ideas for Photographing Newborns, Babies, Children, and Families - I'm a BIG fan of Design Aglow and have always been drawn to their clean style. This guide offers styling and posing tips, as well as technical approaches to portrait/family photography (which can easily be applied to everyday photography).

4. Humanity: A Celebration of Friendship, Family, Love & Laughter - There is so much life in this book. Real life. Real laughs. Real love. It's a very moving and introspective book that always evokes a desire to really capture my everyday. The raw, real everyday.

5. A Beautiful Mess Photo Idea Book: 95 Inspiring Ideas for Photographing Your Friends, Your World, and Yourself - This book should be called "the best of the best of Instagram". The photos are colorful, fun and little bit funky. While this book doesn't really include tips or recommendations for recreating similar photos, it definitely sparks your creativity and makes you look at your day/life in a new (and colorful) way.

looking for more photography tips + inspiration?  

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5 reasons to document a day in your life

Need a reason to document a day in your life?? I've got FIVE good ones for you today and I bet you will be charging your cameras and cleaning off your memory cards in about 2 seconds flat if you make it all the way to the end of this post! 

If you've been wanting to record a day in the life, now is the time! I've captured and recorded a single day for the past five years along with Ali Edwards (and on my own a few times) and the photos and memories are some of my very favorite. But the pictures....oh.my.gosh. They make me cry the ugly cry every.single.time. As much as I would like to think I remember everything, I just don't. Waaahh. I hate it, but it's true. We just can't remember it all, so thank heavens for cameras and notes and the stuff of life.

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1. Life goes so quickly. 

Oh man does it ever. You know the saying "the days are long, but the years are short"? So very true. It feels like just yesterday my son was in his crib sucking on his 400 pacifiers. Now he's in kindergarten + I have a second grader. Life just moves to fast and you kind of have to record it to keep up. The things you think you'll remember this year will soon be replaced with memories from next year and the after that and so on. Taking a moment to record the here and now is incredibly priceless. Just scroll back through your photos and you'll see what I mean.

2. You can view your world from a different perspective.

Fun fact. At least once a day I yell and scream at my kids under my breath (obviously...I'm not THAT mean). Yep… At least once a day. Spilled milk, skidmarks in underwear, and messes everywhere are enough to make me batty most days. Looking at your life through the lens, however, gives you a new perspective on things. It gives you a minute just sit back, observe, and laugh about these moments that will soon be long gone and long forgotten. I'm not saying that it's any less obnoxious when that second glass of milk spills on the floor, but at least my camera gives me a reason to enjoy that moment and record it!

3. You become a part of the picture.

If you're snap happy like me, you are usually behind the camera, not in front of it. I'll be the first one to raise my hand and admit that I don't like being in front of the camera. I feel awkward and weird and ugh... it's just bad. But I know that my kids could care less, and down the road these will be the photos we all cherish, so I make a conscious effort to stick my happy face in some photos every once in a while. Use a project like this to make it happen. These are great opportunities for us to remember to let our hair down and get crazy with our kids. 

4. Things stay the same, but different at the same time.

It always surprises me every year I complete this project that many things stayed the same, but with a new life. Anna has been an avid book lover since she was a teeny, tiny, cute, little, skinny baby. Her love for books has never changed. Every year I take part in this project I snap a picture of Anna reading some type of book. I love how that one aspect of our lives has stayed the same, but has evolved in so many different ways. This project is a great way to celebrate those little things of life. The things that are the same. The things that make us who we are. 

5. You create a time capsule of your story.

Everyone has a story to tell. Everyone. Good, bad, ugly, silly… You have a story to tell! So tell it. Grab your camera, snap away, and document the memories of your days. Then do it again the next year! I promise you won't regret it. Ever ever ever. 

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How to make the move to manual mode

1. Learn the ins and outs of ISO, aperture, shutter speed and exposure compensation.

You HAVE to start here! Study these babies and know how they work together. Learn what is effected when you change one of the settings. Read, research, google, watch videos and keep studying. The more you know, the faster you'll grasp manual mode!

Click on the images below to be taken to the corresponding blog posts and read, read, read! 

2. Set your camera to manual mode.

Now that you have a good understanding of what the settings are and WHAT they can do, put that baby in manual (or mode "M") and play around. Practice and practice some more. It's the best way to learn for sure! (Look - I can rhyme!).

3. Pay attention to the available light.

Always. Always pay attention to the light. Where it is. Where it's falling. Where you want it. How much there is. Light will make or break your photo. Promise.

4. Adjust your settings.

Everything you've read and learned about ISO, aperture, shutter speed and exposure compensation is going to come into play here. Adjust your settings to maximize the light available. I recommend starting with your aperture first and adjusting your exposure and ISO as needed to keep your shutter speed high enough to prevent motion blur. 

Example: I have my aperture WIDE OPEN (f 1.8). ISO is set to 100, shutter speed is 1/20 and my exposure meter is showing my subject/focal point is underexposed by 2 stops (the cursor is at -2 on my light meter). In this case, I would incrementally increase the ISO the get my shutter speed to 1/200 with my exposure meter at either 0 or +0.5. I will likely have to bump my ISO up to maybe ISO 400 or 640 depending on my available light. 

5. Practice without an end result in mind.

I definitely don't recommend trying to figure out manual mode at a special event, family gathering or anything important you want to capture. Instead, grab a baby doll or a stuffed animal, plop him in a chair and practice in manual mode. Move around your house, go outside for a walk and practice some more. If you followed along with the blog posts, I suggested first trying out shutter priority mode (TV mode - Canon, S mode - Nikon) and aperture priority mode (AV mode - Canon, A mode - Nikon) before switching to manual mode. Trying out these modes will help give you a good grasp on WHAT each of these functions do and how changing them can change your available light and resulting image.

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So are you excited yet? If you are snap happy, manual mode will CHANGE your life. I guarantee manual mode will make your photos 100% better. The freedom manual mode gives you as far as creativity and growth is concerned is amazing!! Promise!!  

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Understanding Exposure Compensation

If you're just stopping by, we are working through the three aspects of the EXPOSURE TRIANGLE this week on the blog to help you better understand your camera and how to make it work for you! Be sure to read about ISO, aperture and shutter speed if you haven't already!

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The three "elements" of the exposure triangle are aperture, shutter speed and ISO. Learning these settings and how to make them work for you are key to mastering manual mode and getting the photos results you want. Every time I pick up my camera, I am assessing these settings and my light. I am constantly changing and adjusting these settings and once you have a good grasp on manual mode, you will be too!

A "sidekick" to these settings is exposure compensation, and just like aperture, shutter speed and my ISO, I am constantly checking out my light (exposure) meter and adjusting as need be. 

What is exposure compensation?

In basic terms, exposure compensation is YOU telling your camera whether to make your photo brighter or darker. The exposure/light meter is visible through the viewfinder, as well as on the menu screen of your camera. You will see it represented as a number line graph. The cursor underneath the graph tells you how your subject (or focal point) is exposed with your current camera settings. At "0", your camera is telling you your focus point is properly exposed; at -2, your camera is saying your photo will be underexposed; and at +3, your camera is telling you your subject will be overexposed. 

How to use exposure compensation?

You adjust exposure compensation by moving the dial on the top portion/plate of your camera behind the shutter button (usually close to your settings display screen). Dialing it to the left will decrease exposure, while dialing it to the right will increase the exposure. 

I probably adjust my exposure compensation more than any other setting on my camera. I am constantly keeping my eye on the cursor and as I move with my subject, I am assessing how my subject (focal point) is exposed. If the cursor starts to fall too far to the left (meaning my image is likely going to be underexposed), I try to increase it to be "neutral" (0), or slightly overexposed (+0.5). As you increase and decrease your exposure compensation meter, your shutter speed is affected. Increasing exposure decreases shutter speed; while decreasing exposure increases shutter speed. I always keep a good eye on my shutter speed as I'm changing my light meter and will adjust my ISO (to compensate for my shutter speed) if need be. The key to understanding all of these settings (exposure compensation, shutter speed, aperture, ISO) is that THEY ALL WORK TOGETHER! You have to know what happens to one setting if you change it and vice versa.

Why should you use exposure compensation?

So if you understand ISO, shutter speed and aperture and know how to change them to affect your images, you are probably wondering why you would even need to use your exposure compensation meter, right? The simple answer is that light can be tricky and your camera may not always know which aspect of light you are wanting to be exposed. Even if all of your other settings are perfect for your lighting situation, your subject may not be properly exposed. 

When to use exposure compensation?

Always. Yep. Always use your exposure meter as you are shooting to make sure your subject or focal point is properly exposed. The above photos show darker, more dramatic light and I relied SOLEY on my exposure meter for them all. I metered off my daughter/son's face for them all and adjusted my exposure to make sure they were properly exposed (while also keeping an eye on my other settings to make sure everything was a-okay!). If I would have metered for the background in these images (which was really dark), my kids would have been way overexposed. 

Same thing for the two photos below. Since my son/daughter were backlit I had to meter off their faces to make sure they were properly exposed. If I would have let my camera just meter for me, it would have likely picked the bright background, making my subjects underexposed. And if you read my "How to take better backlit photos" post, you know that I always like to overexpose my backlit photos by 1-2 stops to make sure my subjects are bright!

Adjusting exposure compensation can also help retain the details of the sky. For the silhouette photo of my kids, I metered for the sky (which was brighter than my kids) making my kids underexposed, but keeping the clouds in the sky apparent. If you shoot in RAW (which you totally should - read why here!), you can bring back the exposure to your subjects and have a totally different image. 

So go practice taking a few shots by JUST adjusting your exposure meter and see what happens! It's a game changer for sure!! 

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What is aperture?

If you're just stopping by, we are working through the three aspects of the EXPOSURE TRIANGLE this week on the blog to help you better understand your camera and how to make it work for you! Be sure to read about ISO and shutter speed if you haven't already!

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What is aperture?

Aperture is my very favorite element of the exposure triangle and learning aperture and how it works will be a game changer for your photography journey. Aperture, for the most part, is the opening of your lens and can vary in size depending on the lens you use and how you manipulate your settings. The WIDER (or larger your aperture is), the more light that's let in. Conversely, the NARROWER (or smaller your aperture is), the less light that's let in. As you can see in the chart below, a wide aperture is usually around f 1.8 - f 2.0. A narrower aperture is represented by a larger aperture number, so f 13 or f 16. (It's kind of confusing, right? Just remember a larger aperture is a smaller number and a smaller aperture is a larger number. Whew.)

How does aperture affect my images?

Just like with shutter speed, changing the aperture of your lens can change the light available to your camera. The wider (or more open) your aperture is, the more that's let into your camera's sensor. The smaller your aperture is, the less light that's let into your camera. 

Changing your aperture also affects the depth of field of your images. A larger aperture (f 1.8 or so) gives you a shallow depth of field where the front part of your photos is in focus while the background is blurry (think: in focus subject with pretty bokeh background). A smaller aperture (f 11 or so) gives you a larger depth of field and makes objects in your background more in focus (think: everyone and your surroundings are in focus).

I captured the two photos below wide open at an aperture of f 1.8. In the left image, you can see my daughter is in focus while my son in the background is blurry. In the right image, my son's hands and the leaves are in focus, while his cute little toes and the ground is blurred. 

To help give you a better example, I put together a couple sets of images using various apertures. In this first exampleI set up a shot of a drink with a few lemons behind my glass. If you pay attention to the lemons in the background you will see they become more in focus as my aperture decreases (the apertures are listed at the top of each photo).

I did the same thing in this series below. The image on the far left was shot at f 2.0. As you can see, there is a shallower depth of field with the front part of the image in focus and background blurry. If you take a close look at the background elements in the middle (f 4.0) and right (f 11) photos, you will see the difference in depth of field and detail. 

Getting creative with aperture

As I mentioned previously, changing your aperture can really step up your creative game when it comes to photography! By opening your aperture all the way, you can decrease your depth of field and create beautiful bokeh and blurry, dreamy backgrounds. By closing your aperture, you can capture beautiful landscapes and sunbursts. The possibilities are endless and part of the fun is just playing around to see what you get!

A lot of photographers never change their aperture and prefer to shoot wide open (f 1.8-2.0) all the time. Since the majority of my work is indoors, I usually start with a wide open aperture to allow in as much light as possible. Almost all of my lifestyle newborn session have been captured with an f-stop of 1.8 because I wanted to maximize the light available without compromising my shutter speed or having to really bump up my ISO (remember how they are all inversely related???).

That being said, I definitely think each lens has a "sweet spot" when it comes to sharpness and the only way to figure out how your lens handles each f-stop is to try it out and practice, practice, practice. I definitely think my Canon 135L is amazingly sharp at it's lowest aperture (f 2.0), while my Sigmas are sharper around f 2.2 (even though you can stop them down to f 1.4). 

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I recommend changing your camera settings to "aperture priority" (AV mode on Canon, A mode on Nikon) and snapping away! In the aperture priority mode, you have full control over your f-stop while your camera adjusts your shutter speed and ISO accordingly. Line up a few toys and take a few shots to see what you think! Then keep practicing some more!

Yay! So if you've been following along with these posts, you now know ALL about aperture, ISO and shutter speed , right? You may not know exactly HOW to use them quite yet, but you are ahead of the game when it comes to finally making that jump to manual mode. 

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What is shutter speed?

We're working towards manual mode on the blog this week and if you read the post about ISO, you know that there are THREE settings of your camera which work together to create the exposure triangle - ISO, shutter speed and aperture. These three areas work inversely ALL.THE.TIME in your camera so learning them and how they affect your images is crucial! Today we're going to get nice and cozy with shutter speed and learn what it is, as well as how to use it for your images!

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What is shutter speed?

Shutter speed is how faster the shutter of your camera opens and closes to let light in and capture an image.  A slow shutter speed means your shutter is open for a longer period of time, while a faster shutter speeds indicates a quick open/close of the camera's shutter. 

Shutter speed is measured in seconds and fractions of seconds. A shutter speed of 1" means your shutter is open for 1 second of time, while a speed of 1/100 means your shutter is open for "one one-hundredth of a second". 

How does shutter speed affect your images?

Knowing and controlling your shutter speed helps you capture the movement or motion of a photo. A high shutter speed can basically "freeze" an object in motion. A lower shutter speed can show motion blur, or the actual movement of an object. 

I'm constantly chasing my kids around trying to get a decent photo and since I really don't want their movements or motion to be blurred, I try to keep my shutter speed around 1/250. Depending on how fast your subject is, though, 1/250 might still result in a blurry hand/leg, etc.. If I am photographing a still subject, I keep my shutter speed around 1/80 or 1/100 to account for any camera shake or movement I may do when I press my shutter.

Remember - changing your shutter speed is going to change how much light you let in to your photo (aka - exposure), so a longer shutter speed (30") is going to let in more light and a shorter shutter speed (1/250) is going to let in less light. 

Getting creative with shutter speed

Adjusting your shutter speed can dramatically change your images. Both of the photos below were taking on a merry-go-round and they are vastly different. The first photo was taken at 1/30 second as my daughter whipped around (I also did some panning here to try to keep her in "somewhat" focus). The bottom photo was shot at a shutter speed of 1/500, and as you can see, my son is in focus and is "frozen" in his movement. 

There are so many fun effects you can achieve by changing your shutter speed (water drops from a sprinkler, splashes from the tub, blur of moving cars, twinkly lights) and the best way to figure out how to make your shutter speed work for you is to just play around! I recommend changing your camera settings to "shutter priority" (TV mode on Canon, S on Nikon) and snapping away! In the shutter priority mode, you have full control over your shutter speed while your camera will adjust your aperture and ISO accordingly. 

Ok! So now you should have a pretty basic understanding of both shutter speed and ISO and how to make them work for you! Next up is aperture! 

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Understanding ISO + how to make it work for you

When it comes to taking better photos, learning your camera and how it works is crucial. Auto mode is easy and can seem really comfortable if you've been there a while. Tackling the ins and outs of your camera can seem scary, but figuring out how to make the different settings can give new life to your photos, as well as your photography journey as well.

My very first camera was a Canon Rebel T1i and I shot in auto mode like a champ. And I loved my photos. They are still some of my favorites not because of the quality or lighting, but because of the memories. But as I shot more and more, I started to wonder why my photos were darker or didn't have that "pop" that I was looking for. So I researched some and decided to take a photography class at our local college. The class was all about manual mode and was an EPIC fail. I left so confused and overwhelmed and swore I would never figure out my camera. I put down my camera for a few weeks and when I finally picked it back up, I decided I would just teach myself. And that I did. I'm a very visual learner so I watched and read as much as I could. I tinkered with my camera and settings and I snapped a zillion photos. 

If you are trying to switch out of auto mode, you HAVE to understand the three principles of the exposure triangle - ISO, aperture and shutter speed to make the move to manual mode. They all work together to give you a properly exposed, in focus, crisp and clear image. Today I'm going to try to help you understand ISO and how to make it work for you! Aperture, shutter speed, exposure compensation and some tips for manual mode are coming to the blog shortly so stay tuned!

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What is ISO?

The ISO (International Standards Organization) of a camera controls how sensitive your camera's sensor is to light. The lower your ISO, the less sensitive your sensor is to light; and the higher your ISO, the more sensitive it is to the available light. The ISO on your camera most likely starts at ISO 100 and increases incrementally. Some higher end cameras have a crazy high ISO setting (102,400), but most cap off around 6400 or 12,800. 

How does ISO affect my images?

The best way to think about ISO is to consider what light is available in your setting. The MORE light you have available, the LESS your ISO should be. Conversely, the LESS light you have available to you, the HIGHER your ISO will be. So if you are outdoors on a sunny day, there is plenty of available light, so your sensor doesn't need to be as sensitive to light. Your ISO should most likely be around 100. If you're taking night photos or are in low light, your ISO will be higher - around 3200 or so because there isn't tons of available light, so your camera needs to be MORE sensitive to what light there is. Below is a "rough" idea of how ISO changes with the time of day and place of shooting location. 

As your ISO increases (which means you have less available light for your camera), the more "grain" or noise you will see on your images. Grain isn't necessarily a bad thing at all, but just keep in mind that the sharpness and clarity of your image is affected the more grain/noise you have in your image. All cameras handle light differently and some of the higher end cameras don't have a detectable speck of grain at ISO 6400. Others start to show grain around ISO 1000 or so. My advice is to learn your camera and how far you can push it! 

The above images show a difference in ISO for indoor photos. I didn't change any settings on my camera other than my ISO for these shots and they are all SOOC (straight out of camera). As you can see, ISO 100 and ISO 200 are way too dark and underexposed for this setting. ISO 1000 is way too bright, and if you look closely, you will notice that a lot of the "details" of the image are blown out and undetectable (because the camera was too sensitive to light and the image was overexposed).

And let me just take a sec to remind you that ISO is just ONE of your camera settings you need to learn. ISO, aperture and shutter speed all work inversely together. When you change one of them, you inversely change another. 

Taking a test shot and adjusting your ISO is a great way to determine how much light is available for your images/session. I keep the above "chart" in mind, adjust my ISO accordingly and take a test shot to see what works. From there, I will either raise or lower or ISO (while also paying close attention to the aperture and shutter speed settings). I always want the LOWEST ISO possible for my images and client sessions. I find that most of my indoor photos are usually around ISO 800, but I've definitely had sessions where the homes were dark and I had to bump by ISO up to 3200!

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And that's a look at ISO. The most important take away is that the ISO is your camera's sensitivity to light! Being mindful and aware of the available light and then adjusting your ISO accordingly is the first step in understanding manual mode!!

So are you confused yet?? I know I was when I first read about ISO! Don't worry! I promise the more your practice and learn your camera, the easier all of this gets! You'll be an ISO (and aperture and shutter speed) pro in no time! Stay tuned for additional posts about aperture and shutter speed! 

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My favorite lens for lifestyle newborn sessions

Lifestyle sessions offer a glimpse into the raw + real life of a family. Capturing moments and memories with a documentary approach will always be my favorite way to photograph and being invited into someone's home is always an honor. I love being in a place where people feel the most comfortable...where they can kick their shoes off and jump on the bed. And when you add a brand new baby to the mix, well, that's just the icing on the cake.

The thought of going into someone's house and photographing them as a family used to scare the begeezus out of me (and to be honest, I still kind of get butterflies whenever I walk up to the door). But the more I shot in other's homes, the more comfortable I became. I've learned how to make my camera work for me in small spaces + I always come armed with my 24mm lens! 

My go-to lens for in-home sessions is the Sigma Art 24mm lens. This wide angle lens gives me space to get creative and always allows enough room to get everyone in the frame. It's just magical. I promise.

I'm also pretty short (5'1"), so I struggled with being able to get above my clients with both my 35mm and 50mm lenses. I was always toting around a stool, looking for something to stand on and even just hovering/shooting/praying with other lenses (not really ideal, right?).

Like all wide angle lenses, the 24mm does have a little vignetting around the edges of the images, but it's nothing that can't easily be corrected in post-processing. 

If you're an in-home photographer (and you probably are even if you just capture your kids at home), I couldn't recommend the 24mm lens more! It's been a game changer for all of my lifestyle sessions, especially my newborn sessions!

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